On to the Bunratty Castle and location of Ballykiss what?

Before leaving Connemara we attempted several photos of the grandparents and grandchildren. Hmm… The first and last attempt:

Leaving Connemara

The remaining got a bit silly!

You can’t be in Ireland without seeing a castle. There are loads; and of course you can find them in various conditions-some are no more than ruins where the viewer must use old photographs or drawings and the knowledge of someone else to describe and a paint a picture of what the castle once was, while others have been maintained over the years or restored to their splendor and architectural grandeur. With only small amounts of  planning or efforts you can tour one or even attend a Medieval Banquet.  We heard positive things from both Irish friends and the King clan about the t experience and thought we’d save it for the McDonald Hurd Family visit.

Bunratty Castle

We had a fantastic time being entertained as one of many  “Earl of Thomond’s guests” starting with a sampling of honey Mead; a history lesson about the castle, listening to period music  and delightful singing as well as feasting  on a four course meal with our hands of course! (Hats off, by the way to Seamus, the Juilliard trained violinist and our server for the night!)

Harp music, and our man, Seamus who grace us with his musical talent!

Emmie and one of the Bunratty singers after the banquet.

In the courtyard.

Emmie & the boys found a hill. In fairness each of them (minus Grace) took a turn.

We wish we had more photographs! Perhaps family has a few to share.

Fortunately we had time to check-in to our B & B before the start of the banquet. Not only was it to nice to be able to freshen up after the drive from Connemara, but it’s always fun to explore and poke around a new place.  Erica and Brian also recommended the historic New Park House B & B.  We certainly got a kick out of seeing their names in the registration book.

The New Park House

On the back deck- Pat, Scott, Marti, and Griff!

Chicks entertained the kids as well as the dogs.

New chicks!

The next morning in semi shifts we enjoyed breakfast and left for the location of Ballykissangel. Griff and Pat are big fans of the late 90’s BBC show set in Avoca, County Wicklow.

Pat, Emmie and Spencer at breakfast at the New Park House.

In front of Fitzgerald’s Pub

Pat & Griff on location o f Ballykissangel

Family Weekend in Connemarra

Only a few days in Dublin with the visiting McDonalds’ when it’s time to take to the open road, or the wee roads, to Connemara!

With ten of us in tow, we need to rent two cars. Fortunately, I practiced the weekend prior driving to Arklow. Yes, I had not driven in Ireland up until then, only in Spain when we were on holiday. Griff was a fantastic and a very calm co-pilot.

First though, we stop in Galway for lunch and a wander! No pictures for the moment!

A lovely drive up toward a Loch near Connemara to find yet another terrific Airbnb accommodation !

One end of the loch.  Look what was waiting….

Emmie named the swan Rebecca! Its wing is injured, so we imagined she was a permanent resident.

We loved the house and wished we could have spent more time there!

Creative juices were flowing as the kids wrote acrostic poetry about each other over dinner. Quite entertaining!

The restaurant owner’s dog worked hard to get our attention and play with him. So cute!

A Grandma sandwich after dinner.

~ Next Day – Ashford Castle

Ashford Castle- Incredible gardens! Griff, Pat, Emmie and Christine are first to arrive and explore.

Emmie checks out a turret, one of which line the perimeter of the garden. A fun play area; too bad we don’t have one in our backyard at home.

A perfect tree for play & posing!

Griff and Pat with the vibrant rhododendron plants which was quite plentiful around the grounds!

Emmie finds a friend!

On site was the School of falconry. What a sight to spy a falcon fly from on tree to another. They had a bell attached to one of their talons, so we could also hear them coming.

We read about the private Hawk Walks they offered.

Falcon spotting

Naturally we had to show Spenser, Tristyn and Grace the amazing climbing tree!

All four cousins on the tree – indulging their parents and grandparents for a photo.

Ashford Castle Garden.

Kyle Moore Abby was  one of the inspirations for our trip to Connemara. We had a nice lunch and then took in the views of the Abby and former school.

Christine & Marti

Griff & Scott

Pat & Marti- Mother & daughter

We also had the chance to spend time in Connemara National Park. We learned about the various types of bogs and the Parks and areas’ commitment to preserving them.

Foggy boggy Connemara

Various Irish words for bogs

A good stroll

Cousines-Emmie & Spencer – Foggy hill hike!

More driving and found a beach to explore.

We pulled over to look around this beach.

Beautiful rocks

One more together

Mussels

Found a fantastic place for dinner!

Belfast & Giant’s Causeway- Meghan, Tanner & the McCormacks

A weekend in Belfast & Giant’s Causeway 

First Stop the W5–   Time for some science play and discovery!  A little later the McCormack Clan arrived for a weekend of adventure.

A tug of war challenge

Blocks at the W5 Discovery Center (Belfast)

William Simpson exhibit at the W5

The Titanic Experience

A fantastic exhibition describing the Titanic story from multiple perspectives. Learned quite a bit!

The view of the Titanic Experience from the W5

Hours later….

Located hotel & found food- the young ones enjoyed a fun pizza place while Sharon, Vincent, Scott and Christine managed an adult dinner!

~Next Day

On to the Giant’s Causeway….

A GPS wrong direction led us down a road and a chance meeting with an old college friend which proved the world can seem quite small.

“Scott, pull over that’s Lydia Wise?! Who would have thought on a  wee road in Ireland!

Breathtaking!

Gorse more than dots the landscape

Columns of basalt

Delicate flowers share their color

Found Finn McCool’s Boot

Scott, Emmie & Tanner

The shapes of the rocks made it seem like we were on another planet!

Love!

Happy explorers!

The honeycomb pattern of the basalt columns catches your attention!

Thrilled Meghan and Tanner decided to visit!

One last shot…

For time’s sake the group chose to split up: Scott, Vincent, Tanner, & Mikey dropped us at Dunluce Castlte and returned to meet us after a tour and tasting for some, at the Old Bushmills Distillery.

Dunluce Castle

We learned that The McQuillan Clan were the Lords of the area from the late 13th century until they were displaced by the MacDonalds!   Interesting history…

Results of climbing!

Meghan looking for a shot!

Meghan, Lisa, & Grace- Amazing young women!

Emmie and Katie exploring the ruins of Dunluce Castle

Closer view!

Views from the castle

Quite picturesque

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge

Unfortunately for some, despite arriving with enough time to see the Carrick- a- Rede Rope bridge; it was not enough time to be able to cross it!  Darn- Ah, well! A lovely walk though.

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge
Fisherman used the bridge to access the island of Carrickarede for great fishing!

Emmie might have been the most disappointed that the bridge was closed! Still smiling though.

A fantastic weekend!

Appreciating bank holidays: Wicklow & Wexford

Our recent trip to Wicklow and Wexford

We took advantage of the Monday bank holiday in early May and headed to beautiful Wicklow and Wexford county. After Emmie’s soccer training session, we headed to Arklow to visit with the McCormack clan. As usual a fun visit with everyone.

The following day we drove to beautiful Hook Head Lighthouse.

Incredible!

Coast around Hook Head

Scott and Emmie checking out the sea life…

Hook Head – moss carpet

So many edges to explore

Em liked the spongy ground

On to New Ross, Wexford  County to tour the Dunbrody, Emigrant Ship.  The reconstructed tall ship from 1845 used to transport emigrants to the U.S. & Canada during the time of Great Famine was quite an interesting tour.

Listening to the tour & the bell from the original ship!

One of our tickets was a McDonald- we found the name on the bunk.

Some Lawlors crossing as well.

Learning about the need for the potato

In the cafe at the visitor center % of population with Irish heritage.

Kilkenny Bound– we poked around the town, the castle grounds where we watched a dog agility demonstration, and naturally thought of our beloved Phoebe.

Kilkenny Castle

This dog is happy to run

On lookers

After a realization that adding Kilkenny to the tour, it would be silly to drive south again for our B & B. We scrambled a bit but found a lovely spot in Kildare, Castle View Farm.

Kilkenny has a very strong hurling tradition and an excellent team-  just as we were departing we were confronted with our unlucky timing. Yes, the hurling match was over. (Kilkenny was victorious!)

Castle View Farm: Cows in the back. We got to watch, Ned milk  several of them and bring in the fresh eggs from the hens.

Our lovely host, Liz encouraged us to explore the church ruins just down the road.

Lackagh Church

 We walked a bit more…

Grace taking in the view (A bit grainy of a photo, still love it-)

Something was stirring- we had to take a look

Good morning!

Another highlight was visiting Garvan de Bruir’s studio.  We had seen his work at the Merrion Square Pop- up Christmas market where his mom was showcasing some of his work. I accidentally picked up her purse to admire it, one of his designs. He is an incredible artist and genuinely nice guy. Grace and Emmie loved playing with his family dog and having go on the swing. Wish I remembered its name.

De Bruir Studio

Enjoying the tummy rub!

Such talent and passion for his work!

Some of our latest…. Spring

As the calendar days seem to be slipping through our hands;  passing much too quickly…

Some of our latest

~Emmie won a chocolate Eater bunny from Butlers’ chocolate for her lovely coloring. Here she is picking it up; we were lucky to be allowed a few photos.

Em @ Butler’s w/ prize chocolate bunny- I think the man inside behind her is waiting in line for a coffee. 🙂

One more photo allowed.   Stats: chocolate bunny’s name is Charles and it still around.

*Grace turned 13!!!

The weekend before the four of us went out to a nice dinner. She had a b-day party the following night and a little more celebrating on her actual b-day which happened to fall on a week night.

Grace’s special b-day dinner out on the town.

Some of the girls the morning after! Hope to include a few more photos.

Homemade pizza for the Birthday Girl. Amazing Grace!

~The girls and I spent a weekend in Arklow with the McCormack’s; I attended the Arklow Rugby dinner dance with Sharon, Vincent, Rob, Lisa, Dean and Zoe.  Good craic! Wish I took more pictures. Scott could not make it since he was in Puerto Rico for a conference.

The McCormack’s award for the year’s “Best Supporters”

Lisa and Zoe: strong, beautiful and incredibly genuine and caring.

~I (Christine) ran the Samsung 10k with 3 amazing women.

Walking to the start!

Very lucky to have found some women to run with!  (Jean, Rita and Ruth)

~Emmie is  playing soccer again!  Home Farm Football Club started a Girls Academy!  She’s having a ball!

Home Farm Football Club

A little playing…Lauren, Emmie & Molly

~Emmie has been enjoying her Monday class of Irish dance and participated in her first Irish Feis (Irish for Festival)!  Scott and I attended to support her and survived almost four hours of dance. 🙂

Feet ready for a jig or maybe a reel!

Results

Happy with the experience!

Cliffs of Moher and more with Janet & pre-wedding Erin

Janet and Erin’s visit!

We got to enjoy a few days with Aunt Janet and Erin in April.  Short, sweet and loads of fun.  It was especially nice since it was so close to Erin’s wedding day.

We toured Dublin a bit, shared some pints and vitals, drove to Galway, and county Clare where we explored the the Cliffs of Moher, the Burren and more, heard trad music, took in more incredible sights even some posing cows, savored banoffee pie with carmel sauce and of course had plenty of laughter!

Janet and Erin at Trinity College!

Checking out the sparkly lights at Powerscourt Centre

Love this shot! Browsing around before heading to dinner at our favorite gastropub, L. Mulligan Grocer!

Off to the west… Rain…well, of course!

First stop Galway, a quick meander around and a stop for food. Erin even found something special for Kevin, her kitty.

Erin finds a souvenir for Kevin

Roaming around Galway

Namesake music store in Galway

En route we pass a castle; we  stop and take a closer look…

The castle

Since our hotel was on the way, we decided to check-in and drop our bags off before visiting the Cliffs Moher and Doolin.

Cliffs of Moher- (southwestern edge of the Burren region, County Clare)

Feeling the wind & loving the views-

Family shot at the Cliffs

As usual we love the Irish signage; Erin got a kick out of them as well.

Taking in the view… trying

Emmie testing out the wind.

We drive through Doolin-and consider returning later for drinks and music at Gus O’Conners… though wanting to avoid driving we asked our hotel owner, and she recommended a pub down the hill to hear some trad music.  We liked this idea, so Scott would not have to drive. After a lovely dinner at our hotel,  we took her advice and strolled down the hill.  Fantastic!

The Roadside Tavern

Roadside Tavern

~~ Next day

Guinness- it’s everywhere.

Searching for some Celtic Crosses

Celtic Crosses

On our way to the Portal Tomb, Poulnabrone, which we referred to as the Table we spot more ruins and a field of cows who seemed to be accustomed to passer-byes almost posing for us and anyone else interested.

Posing cows- We wondered what they were thinking.

We imagined the cows were laughing at us as we snapped their photos!

The cows seemed to line up for a photo so naturally.

ruins beside the field of cows

On to the moon…

Burial sight and tomb from almost 6000 years ago…The rocks surrounding the Portal Tomb made us feel like we were on the moon.

Poulnabrone, The Portal Tomb

Fast… view…due to the crazy wind

What next… dinner in Limerick and back to Dublin.

We had the top floor to ourselves… more room for silliness!

Fan of the banoffee pie and carmel sauce- all of us were, actually!

Gorgeous last day in Dublin!  A fantastic visit.

St. Stephen’s Green

Pisa…and Arrivederci Italy!

Pisa

Even though it was our last day in Italy, we decided not to the rush off in the morning and instead take our time at breakfast. Cristina and Mario offered a generous breakfast including: fruits, toast, meats and cheeses, yogurt, cereal and a breakfast tea cake in a lovely sitting room/dining room with many beautiful paintings and family photos.

Iacopo, our host, emailed suggestions for our day and we began with the first: a drive to Marina Pisa.

Fisheries in Marino di Pisa

Road closures, time to find an alternate route – no bother!

Construction

Standing and exploring a bit on the rocky beach with the sunshine and blue skies was grand!

Scott & Grace

Discoveries

Roaming girls – Marino di Pisa

Ah… sunshine – Marino di Pisa

We read that Pisa is much more than its Leaning Tower…so, we headed into town to see the Tower and city for ourselves.

Pisa, a Tuscan port city, was prominent until about 1200. Even after a naval defeat and the port filling up with silt, the city maintains its importance with its University and Field of Miracles, where you can find the famous tower.

The impressive lawn with Cathedral & Tower

The Piassa dei Miracoli consists of the Cathedral, the Baptistery, the Leaning Tower- which is really the Bell Tower and the Churchyard.

Medici Symbol

We all know Emmie has a bit of an obsession with climbing to the top of towers!! How could she and I resist climbing such a famous object? So, bought tickets to do so.  Our entrance time for the Tower was not for another 45 minutes, time to explore the magnificent cathedral!

Door to the Cathedral

Our favorite cathedral we visited this trip. Stunning!

Time to climb…

Tower Entrance

View of the Cathedral and Baptistry

One of the bells

Our obligatory photo at the top!

Descending- yes, you can feel the lean!

It was amusing to watch tourists of all ages and from various corners of the world attempt to capture the quintessential image of holding up the Tower. Emmie wanted to give it a go while we waited to rendezvous with Scott, Grace and Mom. Perhaps a third try would have helped.

Meandering around Pisa, we noticed the university student atmosphere, which we recognize well from State College. Several students seemed to be on break from class or simply meeting where we grabbed a little lunch.

Graffiti revealed students’ causes and local sentiments on many building sides.

We got a kick out of this note on the river’s edge.

Where is Marti?

The rain seemed to come and go despite the forecasted clear skies and several of the shops were unfortunately closed for the afternoon (like siesta in Spain). We voted to return to Casa Formica for some downtime.

Cristina brought us some well appreciated tea and biscuits in the sitting area outside our rooms while Emmie took a turn on their piano.  We even had a few remaining cookies from our lunch spot, Ricciarelli, and a few other almond, pignoli and chocolate treats. Cristina was delighted to hear Emmie play.  Shortly after our tea, we changed to wine as we needed to finish our opened bottle that would not travel home with us.

Emmie got to know a few of the cats on the premises. I think there were about eight. We love this shot of Emmie talking with the black cat that Emmie named…

Emmie and cute cat at Casa Formica

Only this cat wanted our attention and to get into our rooms.

It was nice to meet Icoco after having all our email correspondence.  He and his parents invited us to share a glass of local wine on the terrace which was lovely; we chatted, managing as best we could with the language. Love times like these!

Spaghetteria ir Tegame was an ideal spot for our last meal in Italy as its focus was Pasta!  We feasted on more pasta than we could possibly eat.  Emmie was thrilled to spy the chefs making fresh pasta, “you can see the pasta drying on racks; they are not just taking it from the package like we do…”

Grace and Emmie- happy pasta eaters!

~And of course trips must come to an end. All that was left after our breakfast at Casa Formica was to head to the airport and head home.  Delays due to weather in Dublin gave us more time at the Pisa airport, and still we were back home by early  afternoon. Fantastic trip and memories with Mom/Grandma!  Arrivederi, noi ti amiamo I’Italia

Picturesque Tuscany…

Picturesque Tuscany

Breakfast at Ancora was lovely- especially with Ingrid’s homemade pastries in addition to the cheeses, meats, yogurt, cereal & muesli, juices and coffee.

Spectacular views behind our B & B!

Our room was at the base of the stairs.

And other signs- ones of spring

The other guests staying at Ancora were a friendly family from the Philippines on a trip to Italy and France; we had a chance to talk with them more the second morning. Unfortunately since it was so chilly, unseasonably cool we kept hearing, we couldn’t have breakfast on the terrace, so we returned to our rooms for a short bit until there was space at the indoor table.

Hope to have breakfast here on Ancora’s terrace next time!

Laura sat and chatted with us after breakfast about our day’s plans, offering her wisdom and recommendations from her family’s experiences, her warm and outgoing nature and sense of humor made us feel very welcome; she’s a wonderful host. Disappointingly we didn’t meet the rest of the family.

We loved Laura’s stories about the regional pride and history of Florence and Siena. Our day’s journey would include Siena, Monteriggioni, Radda, Volpaia Panzano and back to Greve…some planned and other unexpected stops- encouraged to keep our eyes posted for regional symbols and hidden treasures.

Though the roads were at times challenging to navigate, It was quite clear when you left one town or village and entered another in this part of Italy. We wondered if this was the case all over the country.  Of course we had to make it into a bit of joke.  “You are in Florence- You are not in Florence”.  Ok, it sounded much funnier in our affected accents as we drove.  Hoping for Mother Nature to change her tune and provide us with some needed warmth & sunshine; we drove to Siena stopping once or twice along the way to look at the spectacular views pondering what some of the villas and vineyards might be like down in the valleys and on the hillsides.

Love the signs!

Roadside views

Emmie was determined to jot a few ideas down in her new journal!

Emmie taking note en route

Once in Siena we headed to the Cathedrale di Santa Maria, encountering plenty of stairs and uphill inclines to get there. These are hill towns no less!  “Sorry, Mom more climbing!”  Siena’s cathedral is beautiful and ornately similar to Florence’s Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore on the outside, but quite different on the inside. Where Florence’s Duomo feels more sparse Siena’s white and greenish-black alternating striped marble gives it an almost dizzying effect;  Emmie remarked right as she entered that it had an Egyptian feel.  We wandered around, noting the amazing treasures of etched and inlaid marble panels and sculptures by Michelangelo and Donatello. As usual Thanks, Rick Steves.

Siena’s Cathedral!

The inside of Siena’s Gothic Cathedral with its white and black striped marble.

The Dome

Matteo di Giovanni’s 1481 Massacre of the Innocents

Fascinating history involving Florence and Siena!

Symbol of Siena- the wolf feeding the twins, Romulus and Remus.

The main square, Il Campo, in Siena!  Very lively!

Laura told us about the pride of the Siena neighborhoods and to look for evidence of this local commitment and honor in the representing flags.  Though there is more behind the history, the 17 contrade or districts focus on a famous horse race that takes place twice in the summer. She mentioned how you’ll see local women all wearing the same contrada scarf a rarity for fashion-conscious Italian women but are willing to do it since it indicates their district iss the winner!

Flags of Siena

After lunch and browsing in some shops and heading back to the car, we ran into a procession of  flag bearers.  Definitely unexpected and a fun experience which emphasized Laura’s description of the competing cantrades.

The district of Tartuca.

Contrada -Aquila

Contrade- Selva (symbol forest)

Monteriggioni –

Laura refrained from saying too much about the village wanting us too discover its uniqueness on our own and I hesitate a bit in my description not wanting to disclose or reveal what it’s like.  A small walled town built in early 1200’s by the Sienese in what we read was to control and protect the surrounding valleys from the powerful city state of Florence.  It’s quite a small though quaint town; we had a coffee and local cake, panforte, and poked around.

The view from the car park before entering Monteriggioni

Entering one of the gates of Monteriggioni

Local church

The square…

Next, we only passed through, Radda, strolling along an area where a market was beginning to close. Probably not taking enough time to properly explore… we took in the views of the hills and valley along the ridge.

The views from the ridge

Emmie and Mom in Radda

Before dinner we headed off to find Volpaia, one of the other hill towns Laura suggested. It was a bit of a challenge to find and a surprise when we did. Luckily we had a GPS since the village was located in a spot reached by narrow winding roads.  Yes, much of these hill towns are like this, but these roads were particularly curvy. We saw a few cars in the public parking lot, but there was no one to be seen; it felt like a ghost town. It was quite mysterious and left us curious; If it was during the day, we may have stayed longer to look around, but given our hunger we peeked and dashed.

Our final adventure for the evening was around finding dinner. We headed to Panzano to a place that had been recommended by Laura as her favorite place in town (and it is open on Monday!). Like much of rural Italy the GPS was only marginal help, so we parked and went on foot. Perhaps our first mistake of the evening. After a bit of a stroll we began asking for the restaurant with local merchants (those that were open as it was Monday!). Every one of them said a variation on “it is just up there (accompanied by a vague gesture) past the arch.” We must also note that it was VERY cold.  We finally arrived at the arch to find the restaurant closed, yes, closed. It was not meant to be. We decided to return to Greve to try the talented leather craftsman’s recommendation, Enoteca Fuoripiazza. What a gem- delicious regional choices. We enjoyed a local wine from a winery we passed earlier in the day, Il Molina di Grace; Scott and I shared a florentine steak that was perfectly prepared, and of course wonderful pasta for Mom and the girls. I can’t forget to mention the scrumptious spinach- my favorite vegetable; we have probably had some at every meal. The owner was warm and  friendly and even brought us an extra dessert when we had difficulty deciding.

Our wine choice, Il Molina di Grace

A very full day, our weary selves were happy to find our beds!

A Holy Procession and on to the Countryside

Leaving Florence and heading for the Hills

Our plan…pack and head to the Palazzo Pitti, one last Florentine site before picking up the rental car and driving to the Tuscan countryside, first hill town, Greve in Chianti.  Our airbnb host allowed us to leave or luggage in the apartment for a few extra hours.

On our way across the Piazza del Duomo, we noticed people carrying olive branches- Of course, it was Palm Sunday.  We were able to catch a glimpse of the procession after the blessing of the palms. I think it’s fair to say that watching the crowds and priests solemnly walk from the Baptistery to the cathedral  left an impression on us; how blessed to be in the beautiful Florence on such a high holy day.

Palm Sunday- departing the Baptistery

From the Baptistery to the Cathedral

Reaching the Cathedral

The Palazza Pitti a Renaissance palace built back in the mid 1400’s for the Pitti family and later sold to the Medici family.  Quite an extensive palace with endless rooms and many impressive examples of Renaissance and Baroque art.  There was a piano concert that would have been nice to hear if we had more time. What a lovely venue! No photos allowed inside and by the time we departed the rain began in earnest.  Ah, well.

Only a few miles outside the city and the roads got interesting, winding narrow switchbacks climbing, then descending…and repeat.  Scott kept his keen driving wits about him and his sense of humor.  Mom and I were thankful and appreciative he was driving; meanwhile trying to leave my “Oohs and Aahs” in reference to the views at bay.

I had directions from our host, Laura at Ancora del Chianti and knew that she would not be there when we arrived, but a note would be waiting indicating which rooms were ours. The dirt road leading to Ancora was bumpy and affected by the winter rains- reminded Mom, Scott and I of East Ridge a bit (Learned later the neighbors did not maintain their section as well.) Though the air was chilly, upon arrival we knew this spot would be special.

The front of Ancora del Chianti

The window of one of our rooms

Olive groves at Ancora del Chianti

After poking around a bit and settling into our rooms we headed to town -Greve in Chianti.

Grace, Mom and Emmie soaking in the view at Ancora del Chianti

After poking around a bit and settling into our rooms we headed to town -Greve in Chianti,

On and off rain, we wandered around the main plazza and then up to the top of an outlook or type of patio of the Museo Di San Franscesco taking in the views, the beautiful views!

Happy Girls

Happy us

What else?   Scott and I found belts.

Beltmaker in Greve

We consider visiting a local winery and are given directions from the tourist information center … a bit of a miscommunication on timing, but our gracious host, Ettore from Pian del Gallo welcomes us and agrees to give us a tasting.

Thank you, Ettore from Pain del Gallo

Ettore taught us quite a bit about Chianti Classico and Super Tuscan wines; though, he started the tasting with one of his whites and ending with a sweeter one, Vino Santo in addition to plates of his farm’s olives, sun-dried tomatoes, and parmesan cheese and crackers…

While the girls did not have any wine, they ate their fare share of snacks…

Grace enjoying antipasti at Pian del Gallo

Big smiles from Emmie

Ettore recommended (when asked) a delicious low-key pizzeria, La Cantina. Delicious, delicious, truly amazing.

Florence….

Florence- day 3

So much to see…- thus our last full day in Florence was site and art intensive!

First the The Museo dell’Opera del Duomo.  This museum holds many of the original works created for the Duomo, The Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore for safekeeping and preservation. Though, in the 15th c. this was the site of workshops and studios of the people who worked on the cathedral. Why go?  Well, nothing short of incredible art.

We enjoyed the Sala delle Cantorie, the room with the choir lofts by Donatello and Lucia della Robbia. Children singing and playing music to show how they “praise the Lord.”

Donatello (1433-38), Cantoria- choir loft

Lucia della Robbia’s choir loft

In the Sala dell’Altare, the alter room, we admired the intricate silver work highlighting the life of John the Baptist and other scriptures.

Sala dell’Altare- the silver altar of the Battistero- Unfortunately a bit blurry.

And of course, Michelangelo’s Pietà. Each of the four figures, vary in completion yet certainly share their devotion to Christ.  We read Michelangelo damaged the sculpture with a hammer when he found a defect in the marble.

Michelangelo’s Pietà.

Before Emmie and I climbed to the top of the Duomo, all of us looked around inside. The interior is sparse especially compared to the ornate façade, but this is intended. It was fairly crowded, and you were herded in one direction until you reached the center near the alter and dome.  With the purple cloth covering the crucifix, it was quite evident, Easter was close.

The interior

The Alter at the The Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore

Giorgio Vasari and Federico Zuccari’s painting, The Last Judgment, which is painted on the inside of the dome.

Emmie and I were happy to use our Firenze Card for the entrance to climb to the top of the Duomo since the line was long. The way in which it was organized and merging; we felt like we were cutting the line.  Scott, Grace and Grandma browsed around the plaza and we would find them with a quick text when we were down. As usual with climbing to the top of towers of cathedrals and castles, Emmie must count the steps- 463 steps later- we made it to the top.

Peering out one of the windows as we climbed the Duomo.

Emmie and Christine reach the top of the Duomo.

the view from the top

A closer perspective of the Fresco.

Next stop the Bargello Sculpture Museum. 

The courtyard of the Bargello Museum

On our way to see some art (Bargello Museum)

Donatello’s early marble David

Donatello’s bronze- very different depiction of David

David by Verrocchio 1475

Can you see a pattern?  David was certainly a popular biblical hero to sculpt and paint. More to see, but before more touring and seeing more art, we need some food. Plenty of choices…

Next choice? This restaurant was having some work done.

Tasting more ribolitta, the regional Tuscan soup, was no sacrifice; amazing how a soup can vary from place to place. This particular one was delicious- Mom’s favorite if I remember correctly.  Grace and Emmie who could live on pasta were  happy to sample more pasta. And of course a glass of red wine with lunch is grand!  (Trattoria Gabriello)

Fortified and ready to continue, we direct ourselves to the Uffizi Gallery for Botticelli’s The Birth of Venus,  Primavera,, and many other Renaissance masterpieces. These two paintings are one of my most vivid memories of visiting Florence in college. I was excited to gaze at them again and see what Mom, Grace, Emmie, and Scott thought of them.

Had to get a photo of Mom with a performer outside the Uffizi Gallery!

At one of the outside courtyards at the Uffizi Gallery.  I think we are ready to move on…

View of the Ponte Vecchio from the Uffizi Gallery Courtyard

We venture across The Ponte Vecchio and as many do snap a few photos!

Group photo on the The Ponte Vecchio

Grace and Emmie voted for a gelato stop and how fortunate there was a place right on the way.  Mom and I peaked at the leather goods at the market. Devine!

Time to put our feet up for a well deserved respite until dinner.  More vino? We wander into a fantastic wine store on the walk back to the apartment. The owner was genuinely nice and helpful. His English was quite strong and with what seemed like an American accent; turns out he is married to an American and lived in the Chicago area for some years.  He recommended a few wine possibilities for our next few nights in addition to a winery in the southern part of Tuscany.

Fascinated with the beautifully painted paper and calligraphy pens, Emmie and I poked around the IL Papiro shop. We asked a few questions about the process of painting and decorating, which led to an impromptu demonstration. We got lucky since we were the last ones left in the shop before closing. What a fun surprise-we knew we had missed the demonstrations earlier and were just hoping to buy some beautiful paper for Emmie’s Origami boxes and a calligraphy pen; remember, Emmie’s obsession with Harry Potter. Emmie’s excitement and gratitude were priceless and made me proud!

Il Papiro – paper decorationg demonstration.

The blending of paint making incredible designs in the paper

The painted paper sample from Il Papiro

Emmie is becoming quite strong with directions and together we found our way home from our longer than anticipated outing.  With only a small amount of time before leaving for dinner!  Enough time to share our experience and a glass of wine with Mom and Scott.

Our best dinner in Florence, La cucina del Garga!  Such a fun place with eclectic collection of art- friendly and passionate staff.

Best dinner in Florence at the Garga Trattoria

We encourage sharing of food, so we all got to try everything!  To start, delicious calamari with avacado over spider lettuce and an artichoke and Parmigiano antipasti. Then Grandma’s spaghetti with marinara  sauce, (Yes, Grandma’s recipe), a pasta with avocado and lime and a tagliatelle with creamy citrus. Next a roast pork that was out of this world and a sea bass that was almost that good. Desserts were flour-less chocolate cake, Momma’s cheesecake and a lemon tart, which was the winner for Scott. Everything was spectacular.

Ah, satisfaction on many levels! We head to Greve in Chianti tomorrow…